When we reached Mysuru KSRTC bus stand at morning 5am, interstate bus packed with mallu's waiting for us to board. Virajpet is one of the four taluk in kodagu district. The way is so beautiful but I was not able to enjoy the beauty as I was tried by sleepless night. My eyes are closing automatically. Me and my cousin tried to keep ourselves up so that we don't miss our stop. Both of us didn't know much about Coorg marriage so we are confused about how much time we need to stay in marriage hall. Finally we decided to stay in lodge as we badly wanted to sleep and hot bath after sleep. We had landed inside old crumpled building which had lodge board outside, however rooms are pretty decent.
During check inn, we saw few mallu guys with beer bottles entering side lodge. Those guys had a expression of Olympic medal winner. As Kerala Government for banned alcohol consumption, Karnataka border cities are hub for Kerala people to drink.
Reached marriage hall around 10am after sleeping in cold room for 3 hours straight. My cousin worked in chennai for two years. He had a coorgi roommate in pg. As both of them are outside, they were close and kid of tribe brotherhood. I accepted to accompany with my cousin for marriage only after he agreed to travel with me for next 3 days in coorg. So here we are landed in coorgi marriage by thinking are attending just another another marriage visit but little less we know it will turn to one of the memorable marriage I ever attended.
We joined wth people are having light snacks in the entrance. Snacks included sweets, coffee, tea,etc. As we are never shy of food, we took full plate snacks and landed on empty chairs. Most of the elders were wearing traditional Kodava dress. Eye catchy item is Knife like structure in the waist in silver colour. Both of us surprised when we saw people touching their elders feel irrespective of gender while greeting. As we do only hand shakes while greeting, this gesture remembered our culture. Irrespective what of work they are doing, people used to touch elder feet. I was bowled by kodava culture. But sad thing is handshake are also creeping in slowly. Many people irrespective of age doing hand shake even ladies too.
Young generation of kodava boys and girls are comfortable in their modren dress like shirts, blazers, lehengas etc. Are kodava's also losing their tradition slowly like others? or May be they don't have traditional dress ready yet.
Second surprise is separate queue for men and women to wish newly wed couple. It seems kodava's are more civilize than others in term of giving equal status to woman. Not only in queue, kodava's woman can also drink in their home.
I had one more surprise when we went for lunch;
open bar. I was expecting home made wines but they had every kind of drink available in regular bar. As I am newbie, I went with a glass to get beer just like in brewery but they offered me full bottle. As elders occupied places, we started searching for a place to drink by holding plate full pig curry, kabab and beer bottle. We settled in to place near elderly person who was lonely having hard drinks. By seeing our discomfort and shock, He guessed that we are not Kodava. He worked as Police Inspector and now settled in mysuru. He was also surprised as drinks available both on both day and night. He shared few interesting things with us about Kodava culture like expense of marriage shared between both groom and bride side, Kodava dress cost around Rs.25000 and now only close relatives wear Kodava dress in marriages. The environment is superb and kicking.
After receiving series of culture shock, We went for a walk in less travelled path. Even though, Kodagu is only 250km from my place, culturally we are far apart. I can't imagine expense sharing in marriage and open bar in our side marriages.
I had another shock when we went to have lunch because of sitting arrangement. Now, every where people adapting buffet system. Our side, every convention hall designed to accommodate around 300 people and sitting arrangement is row wise. Each row can accommodate 50-60 people. Catering guys serve all the item one by one. But in this convention hall, there is no seating arrangement like that. Convention hall is built to server through buffet system. In centre of convention, there is place for keeping dishes in roundtable manner. I am very shy by nature but due to travel my shyness is shredding slowly. Confidently, I asked the dish name to catering guys when i was not able to identify the dish. Notable improvement in me. We had pleasant time while having lunch as we were sitting against most beautiful gal in the hall.As groom is free, we had small chit chat and he invited for evening ceremony.
After a nap in lodge, We started to walk towards marriage hall in evening. Throughout the way, we drenched in rain. Marriage hall was looking like a party hall now. There were gals and boys dancing in front of bride. And Open bar was still there with lot of snacks and full bottles. Now gals are in dancing in complete modren dress, most of the guys had a drink in their hands. Atmosphere was very pleasant. Occasionally groom also joined the dance crew. We didn't got courage to dance so I settle with beer and snacks. Cousin bought me second beer when I finished first bottle in few minutes as I was getting better taste now. Custom of dance is people are stopping bride entering to hall by dancing in front of her.
From the time we enter inside hall, beautiful was stealing glances. She turned her chair so that she can sit opposite to me. Then she pushed her mother to dance. She was dancing pretty well for her beauty. sometimes she was looking at me to check whether I am still watching her dance. I forced my cousin to have dinner when she stopped. I tried my level best to start conversation with her, I was about to greet her and congratulate for wonderful dance but her mom came suddenly. Words died in mouth and that's the end of it.